Chapter 61 vs 62: Knit vs Woven Apparel

The split between HS chapter 61 (knit or crocheted apparel) and chapter 62 (woven apparel) is the most consequential classification question in textile imports. The chapters are organized identically (men's shirts, women's blouses, men's trousers, etc.) with parallel headings, but the duty rates differ substantially by line. Misclassifying knit as woven (or vice versa) can cost several percentage points of duty, multiplied by the Section 122 stack on top.

This guide explains the construction test, the fiber predominance rules, and how to read a garment.

The construction test

A knit fabric is formed by interlocking loops of yarn. A woven fabric is formed by interlacing warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns at right angles.

To identify:

1. Visual: look closely at the fabric. Knit shows rows of loops. Woven shows the grid of warp and weft.
2. Stretch: knit fabrics stretch significantly in at least one direction. Woven fabrics have very limited stretch unless the yarn itself is elastic.
3. Edge fraying: woven fabrics fray when cut; knit fabrics tend to curl rather than fray.

Common knit garments: T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jersey dresses, polo shirts, yoga pants, leggings, swimwear, socks.

Common woven garments: dress shirts, suits, jeans, chinos, sport coats, formal dresses, neckties.

Chapter 61 structure

Chapter 61 has 17 headings:

• 6101: men's or boys' overcoats, knit
• 6102: women's or girls' overcoats, knit
• 6103: men's or boys' suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, knit
• 6104: women's or girls' suits, ensembles, jackets, dresses, trousers, knit
• 6105: men's or boys' shirts, knit
• 6106: women's or girls' blouses, shirts, knit
• 6107: men's or boys' underwear, pajamas, knit
• 6108: women's or girls' slips, pajamas, knit
• 6109: T-shirts, singlets, knit
• 6110: jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, knit
• 6111: babies' garments, knit
• 6112: track suits, ski suits, swimwear, knit
• 6113: garments of fabrics of 5903/5906/5907 (impregnated, coated, etc.)
• 6114: other knit garments
• 6115: pantyhose, tights, socks, hosiery, knit
• 6116: gloves, mittens, knit
• 6117: other knit clothing accessories

Chapter 62 mirrors with woven versions of the same categories.

Worked example: yoga pants

Most modern yoga pants are knit (cotton/spandex jersey or similar). Classification: chapter 61, heading 6104.63 (women's knit trousers of synthetic fibers) if predominantly synthetic, or 6104.62 (cotton) if predominantly cotton.

Common error: classifying as chapter 62 (woven trousers, heading 6204). The construction test settles it: knit fabric, chapter 61.

Duty difference:

• 6104.63: 28.2 percent MFN.
• 6204.63: 28.6 percent MFN.

Plus 15 percent Section 122 on both. Small percentage difference but for a large importer the lifetime difference is substantial. More importantly, the misclassification exposes the importer to 1592 penalties.

Worked example: polo shirt

A typical pique polo shirt is knit pique fabric. Classification: chapter 61, heading 6105.10 (cotton knit men's shirts) for a cotton polo. Or 6106.10 (women's cotton knit shirts/blouses) for women's.

Note: "polo shirt" is a colloquial term not used in the HS. CBP looks at the underlying construction and classifies in the relevant 6105 or 6106 heading.

Fiber predominance

Within chapter 61 and 62, the subheading often distinguishes by predominant fiber: cotton, wool, synthetic, artificial, etc.

The rule (Section XI Note 2):

"Goods classifiable in chapters 50 to 55 or in heading 5809 or 5902 and of a mixture of two or more textile materials are to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which predominates by weight over each other single textile material."

In practice:

• 60 percent cotton, 40 percent polyester: classify as cotton.
• 40 percent cotton, 60 percent polyester: classify as polyester (chapter 61/62 synthetic line).
• 50 percent cotton, 50 percent polyester: GRI 3(c) sends to the later numerically. In knit men's T-shirts, heading 6109.10 (cotton) is earlier than 6109.90 (other textile materials). So 50/50 cotton/poly goes to 6109.90.

Special handling for elastane

Elastane (spandex, Lycra) creates rule complications. Under Section XI Note 1(B), elastomeric yarn is one of the textile materials. But Note 2 has carve-outs for elastane content under specific thresholds.

Practical rule of thumb:

• Elastane under 5 percent of garment weight: ignored for predominance test.
• Elastane 5 to 50 percent: counted normally.
• Elastane over 50 percent: garment classifies as elastane (a synthetic).

Most stretchy garments are still classified by the dominant non-stretch fiber (cotton, polyester, etc.) because the elastane is usually under 5 percent.

Worked example: cotton-spandex t-shirt

A women's t-shirt: 92 percent cotton, 8 percent elastane.

Knit construction: chapter 61. Elastane at 8 percent counts for predominance: 92 percent cotton vs 8 percent elastane. Cotton predominates. Classification: 6109.10 (cotton T-shirts).

If the same shirt were 50 percent cotton, 50 percent elastane, classification would shift to 6109.90 (other) or to the synthetic line depending on subheading definitions.

Mixed knit and woven components

For garments combining knit and woven (e.g., a hoodie with a knit body and a woven inner pocket), GRI 3(b) applies: the component giving the garment its essential character determines classification.

For a hoodie (predominantly knit body): chapter 61. For a flannel shirt with a knit collar: chapter 62 (woven body).

How CBP catches the misclassification

CBP audits and routine inspections both catch knit/woven errors. The patterns:

• Misdescription on commercial invoice: "yoga pants" vs "stretch trousers" sometimes hides the construction.
• Generic descriptions: "ladies' apparel" without specifying knit or woven.
• CBP fiber and construction analysis: random samples sent to CBP labs.

When CBP reclassifies, the new HTS sticks for all similar entries; the importer owes back duty plus penalty.

Trim and accessories

Most knit and woven garments have small components of the opposite construction: a knit collar on a woven dress shirt, a woven label on a knit T-shirt, a sewn-on woven ribbon trim on a knit pullover. The rule: the chapter is determined by the body of the garment, not by small accessory components, unless those components contribute essential character.

Trim of 5 percent or less by weight is generally ignored. Trim above 5 percent but not constituting essential character: still ignored. Trim that defines the garment's essential function (e.g., a substantial woven shell over a knit lining on a coat): the construction with essential character drives classification.

Children's apparel sizing

For both knit and woven, sub-headings often distinguish by sex (men's, women's, boys', girls', unisex, infants') and size ranges. Subheading sub-categorization for babies' garments (chapter 6111 knit, 6209 woven) uses defined size ranges. Misclassifying a children's garment as adult, or vice versa, shifts the duty rate.

Imported as a set

A coordinated knit top plus woven skirt sold and shipped together: the set classifies as either two separate articles (one knit, one woven) or as a single set under GRI 3, depending on retail packaging. CBP CROSS rulings show the analysis varies by presentation.

How the calculator handles textile classification

The LandedFees HS lookup tool for chapter 61/62:

• Asks about construction (knit/woven) explicitly.
• Asks about fiber content (percentage by weight).
• Computes the predominance.
• Surfaces the resulting code and duty rate.
• Notes the Section 122 stack and any AD/CVD scope.

For high-volume textile importers, request a binding ruling on novel garment styles before importing.

Related guides

• 10 Most Misclassified HS Codes (and how to fix them)
• HS Code Lookup: How to Find Yours
• Chapter 84 vs 85: Machinery vs Electrical
• Calculate Import Duty: Bangladesh to USA
• Calculate Import Duty: Vietnam to USA
• Calculate Import Duty: India to UK

Try the LandedFees HS lookup tool for apparel classification.